It wouldn't be a [family name redacted] road trip if we didn't fit four countries into three days! My dad came to Europe for business this past weekend, so I hopped the Channel to see him and we had fun gamboling about the Low Countries to visit a few top-notch art locations.
I've been busy with a whirlwind project turnaround, but here's a quick overview of things I learned: Luxembourg doesn't have a whole lot but they do have some entertaining signs (see below); Belgian public transit can get a bit hairy; I need to learn Dutch because I was in ecstasies over the art; and I should probably see more of Germany than just one cathedral - but what a cathedral.
I've been busy with a whirlwind project turnaround, but here's a quick overview of things I learned: Luxembourg doesn't have a whole lot but they do have some entertaining signs (see below); Belgian public transit can get a bit hairy; I need to learn Dutch because I was in ecstasies over the art; and I should probably see more of Germany than just one cathedral - but what a cathedral.
I'm grateful for the ease of navigating around the continent and all these tiny countries by public transport - I was in Brussels two hours after leaving London. Still, it was really nice to have a rental car and built-in driver (thanks, Dad!) to set our own flexible itinerary. We drove up to Rotterdam for the excellent collection in the Museum Boijmans van Beunigen, and stayed in Vermeer's town of Delft - mostly for the views, as none of his artwork remains there. These are well-known cliches to anyone who's been to the Netherlands, but I was impressed by the lovely canals and architecture, ease and ubiquity of biking, and the immense flatness of the landscape. And the fact that people spoke to me in Dutch, which was fun until I had to respond (with the only phrase I know: "...thank you"?).
In the Hague I made my pilgrimage to the Mauritshuis, a new contender for places I want to inhabit forever (along with Trinity Library, Dublin). The museum is not overlarge, but nearly every work in it is stunning and/or significant. I had to drag myself away from the Holbeins, among others. This trip was the first time I'd been to an art museum with a non-art historian in a while, so props to my dad for putting up with me. I got the luxury of looking at things outside of my working period, and the reminder that most people don't spend hours in front of one work. (But I haven't noticed everything yet!)
Also in the Hague was a little-known (except by my father, who always has great resources!) museum called the Panorama Mesdag. It featured a 360-degree painting of a beach scene that was incredibly cool to be immersed in. It felt surprisingly real with the shifting light and the sandy bank that stretched between the viewing platform and the walls of the work. Then it was on to Aachen to see the incredible, evolving cathedral of Charlemagne (different parts built from 796 onwards). I can't tell you how strange it is as an American to drive through four countries in a day. Four states, maybe.
Luxembourg was my father's ultimate destination and my mostly blasé interest in checking a new country off my 'visited' list. It was neat to walk around Luxembourg City - the historic casemates are definitely worth exploring, but there's not a whole lot to do in the centre unless you're there for business or enjoy high-priced shopping. When I took a walk in the evening my boot heels clicking* on the cobblestones echoed in the near-empty streets.
I had an interesting detour on the way back from Luxembourg - my local train back got diverted and we were crammed onto a bus to the next station. At least it happened in the French-speaking part of Belgium so I could actually understand what was happening, along with the various grumbles of fellow passengers. (New vocab!) I was sorry to say goodbye to my dad so soon, but it was a wonderful adventure. I'm looking forward to more.
Love,
Annie
*My FLAT boot heels, Mom.
Also in the Hague was a little-known (except by my father, who always has great resources!) museum called the Panorama Mesdag. It featured a 360-degree painting of a beach scene that was incredibly cool to be immersed in. It felt surprisingly real with the shifting light and the sandy bank that stretched between the viewing platform and the walls of the work. Then it was on to Aachen to see the incredible, evolving cathedral of Charlemagne (different parts built from 796 onwards). I can't tell you how strange it is as an American to drive through four countries in a day. Four states, maybe.
Luxembourg was my father's ultimate destination and my mostly blasé interest in checking a new country off my 'visited' list. It was neat to walk around Luxembourg City - the historic casemates are definitely worth exploring, but there's not a whole lot to do in the centre unless you're there for business or enjoy high-priced shopping. When I took a walk in the evening my boot heels clicking* on the cobblestones echoed in the near-empty streets.
I had an interesting detour on the way back from Luxembourg - my local train back got diverted and we were crammed onto a bus to the next station. At least it happened in the French-speaking part of Belgium so I could actually understand what was happening, along with the various grumbles of fellow passengers. (New vocab!) I was sorry to say goodbye to my dad so soon, but it was a wonderful adventure. I'm looking forward to more.
Love,
Annie
*My FLAT boot heels, Mom.