Well, hello again! I hope you've been feeling spring rush in; I've been living it up in France for the last week. I got to experience great wine, food, art, and company, thanks to my mom. And the ultimate luxury (for me at least): a bath. The trip was wonderfully relaxing, fun, and free, and I'm very grateful for it.
So here's the recap: and buckle your seatbelts, you're in for a long one. But don't worry too much - it's categorized.
So here's the recap: and buckle your seatbelts, you're in for a long one. But don't worry too much - it's categorized.
First off, of course, is art: I wanted to make it to Dijon to see the Well of Moses, which my tutor has written about extensively. It did not disappoint! One perk of studying more 'obscure' Northern art - parts of it, at least, are in much calmer locations (than, say, the Uffizi). If only all art visits could be so easy and uncrowded. Unfortunately the city's Beaux-Arts museum was closed on the day we were there, but we spent a rainy afternoon wandering in and out of old churches. From there we journeyed on to Beaune, where we stayed in a lovely location just outside of town. The Hospices museum, which houses an incredible Rogier van der Weyden polyptych, was very well done. There was a large movable magnifying glass that allowed you to see amazing detail, and the separation of interior and exterior panels allowed you to view both at the same time. I'm not saying dismantling is always the best solution, but it sure beats trying to crane your neck around the back of display cases. (Some museums use mirrors to get around this problem too.)
Wine: We had an excellent and informative tour around the Burgundy (Bourgogne) region that surrounds Beaune. I learned bunches about the appellations and French rules and practices as we drove through the vineyards and visited family and larger domaines. It was a wonderful experience, though it has ruined me somewhat for Tesco's Finest.
Food: So, did anyone ever tell you the food in France is fantastic? We had number of great meals along the way, including one in Paris where they brought things out without telling you what was what - it was surprising, challenging and great fun, probably increased by the accompanying wine consumption. One of my favorites, though, was our cobbled-together dinner of baguette and cheese, fruit and veg, wine and chocolate. I got to use my French 101 vocab at the market to order our meal, reminding me of the little practice sketches we used to do in class ("Je voudrais des tomates, des haricots verts..."). The chocolateries were all selling delicious chicks, eggs, fish, bunnies, frogs, and bells for Easter. I suppose each one makes about as much sense as the other in relation to the holiday!
Wine: We had an excellent and informative tour around the Burgundy (Bourgogne) region that surrounds Beaune. I learned bunches about the appellations and French rules and practices as we drove through the vineyards and visited family and larger domaines. It was a wonderful experience, though it has ruined me somewhat for Tesco's Finest.
Food: So, did anyone ever tell you the food in France is fantastic? We had number of great meals along the way, including one in Paris where they brought things out without telling you what was what - it was surprising, challenging and great fun, probably increased by the accompanying wine consumption. One of my favorites, though, was our cobbled-together dinner of baguette and cheese, fruit and veg, wine and chocolate. I got to use my French 101 vocab at the market to order our meal, reminding me of the little practice sketches we used to do in class ("Je voudrais des tomates, des haricots verts..."). The chocolateries were all selling delicious chicks, eggs, fish, bunnies, frogs, and bells for Easter. I suppose each one makes about as much sense as the other in relation to the holiday!
Chateaux: We drove west to visit the famed chateaux of the Loire, basing ourselves in Amboise. I'm not including all the photos because you can probably find better exteriors than I took, but these were our stops: Fontainebleau, Chambord, Chenonceau, Amboise, Clos Luce, Amboise, Clos Luce, Amboise, Clos Luce, Azay-le-Rideau, Amboise, Clos Luce, Azay-le-Rideau, and Villandry (for the gardens). It was interesting to see the palimpsestic history of the houses, with their multiple owners and layers of decoration and construction. We had to sort out all the confusing French kings with the help of some judicious Googling. Though they were all pretty impressive, Chenonceau in particular had beautiful architecture and exhibits. It was also pretty amusing to catch the texts' subtle bias in favor of Catherine de Medici (Henri II's wife) over Diane de Poitiers (his mistress, and previous owner of the chateau).
After a while all those interiors could start to blend together; the architecture and gardens were generally the best - and most distinctive - parts of each visit.The driving and directions got a bit complicated at times too, but we always made it to our destination...eventually. And on speaking terms, no less!
Churches: I insisted we tack on Fontevraud Abbey, which was awesome, though I may have worn G's patience out a bit. (The perils of traveling with an art historian.) While their remains were destroyed in the Revolution, the abbey still houses the gisants, or tomb effigies, of Eleanor of Aquitaine, her second husband Henry II, and their son Richard the Lionheart. (Whose lion heart, I should add, is buried back in Rouen.) A music rehearsal taking place in the former refectory gave the visit an enchanting, ethereal atmosphere. They keep the abbey running with funds from different entrepreneurial schemes – renting rooms out for meetings and events, running a hotel on the site, and the like.
After a while all those interiors could start to blend together; the architecture and gardens were generally the best - and most distinctive - parts of each visit.The driving and directions got a bit complicated at times too, but we always made it to our destination...eventually. And on speaking terms, no less!
Churches: I insisted we tack on Fontevraud Abbey, which was awesome, though I may have worn G's patience out a bit. (The perils of traveling with an art historian.) While their remains were destroyed in the Revolution, the abbey still houses the gisants, or tomb effigies, of Eleanor of Aquitaine, her second husband Henry II, and their son Richard the Lionheart. (Whose lion heart, I should add, is buried back in Rouen.) A music rehearsal taking place in the former refectory gave the visit an enchanting, ethereal atmosphere. They keep the abbey running with funds from different entrepreneurial schemes – renting rooms out for meetings and events, running a hotel on the site, and the like.
On Easter Sunday we left Amboise to go to mass at the grand cathedral in Orléans, Joan of Arc's old stomping grounds. We got something of the medieval peasant's experience, as it was freezing cold inside despite the mild day. I was surprised to see younger people there as well, though it was still predominantly older generations in attendance.
From there we made our way back to Paris, where we spent our last afternoon/evening. Mom flew out the next morning, and since I had the luxury of a short train journey, I made the most of a half-day there. Despite my recent trips, I still had plenty to see and do. Paris is always exciting, though I quickly missed the intimacy of the small towns where people will greet you in the street.
The city centre was hectic with all the holiday visitors, but there were exhibits to see! And looong lines; apparently everyone goes to the museums on Easter. The Velazquez exhibit at the Grand Palais was exhaustive – not to say exhausting – and impressive. I also hit the Tudors at the MuséeééMusééée du Luxembourg because I was curious how the French would present the topic. Some of the works in the Velazquez show were stunning, and the Tudor show was reliably entertaining. There was an incredible array of loans in both.
From there we made our way back to Paris, where we spent our last afternoon/evening. Mom flew out the next morning, and since I had the luxury of a short train journey, I made the most of a half-day there. Despite my recent trips, I still had plenty to see and do. Paris is always exciting, though I quickly missed the intimacy of the small towns where people will greet you in the street.
The city centre was hectic with all the holiday visitors, but there were exhibits to see! And looong lines; apparently everyone goes to the museums on Easter. The Velazquez exhibit at the Grand Palais was exhaustive – not to say exhausting – and impressive. I also hit the Tudors at the MuséeééMusééée du Luxembourg because I was curious how the French would present the topic. Some of the works in the Velazquez show were stunning, and the Tudor show was reliably entertaining. There was an incredible array of loans in both.
I also finally made it to the Orangerie museum, which I had been pining to see for quite some time. It was beautiful; almost like a sacred space, or therapeutic one. It was Monet's response to world war, to try to rebuild a sense of peace. It's certainly necessary after such a massive loss of life, faith, and trust. A memorial like that does not attempt to destroy memory, deconstruct the conflict, or deify the dead. It just counteracts the hatred, brutality, ugliness, and pain that are provoked and built up over a war. It helps remind people that peace does exist, and that they can too. Now that’s a war memorial.
It was a bit rushed squeezing in three museums but I was so glad to get to them all. I felt like I was giving my eyes and mind a workout, trying to absorb everything I saw. Then again, why not soak up everything? The whole experience was pretty luxurious, and a Pierre Herme macaron felt like the perfect finishing touch to taste as well as see la vie en rose. All in all, a wonderful trip!
Love,
Annie
It was a bit rushed squeezing in three museums but I was so glad to get to them all. I felt like I was giving my eyes and mind a workout, trying to absorb everything I saw. Then again, why not soak up everything? The whole experience was pretty luxurious, and a Pierre Herme macaron felt like the perfect finishing touch to taste as well as see la vie en rose. All in all, a wonderful trip!
Love,
Annie